Method for cutting garments



Sept. 29, 1942. A. E. szABo' METHOD FOR CUTTING GARMENTS Filed March 16,1940 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 S Rd Y 0 m8 M 1 i QJ M H .b 4.8 F M W E.I N m mgAM 0 l nwJ .b ..l

Sept. 29, 1942. A. E. szABo' METHOD FOR CUTTING GARMENTS 3 Sheets-Sheet5 Filed March 16, 1940 mvenrog ADORJHN ERNO SZHBQ er: fife! PatentedSept. 29, 1942 orrics METHOD FOR CUTTING GARMENTS Adorjan Ernii Szab,Budapest, Hungary; vested in the Alien Property Custodian ApplicationMarch 16, 1940, Serial No. 324,237 In Hungary March 18, 1939 1 Claim.

In the methods of cutting garments as employed up to now it wasnecessary to make use of the figures of proportion of an idealised typeof body. As however, in reality it is not possible to find two equalhuman bodies and tailoring was rendered difficult by variouscombinations difiicult to detect of different kinds of physicalalterations of a greater or smaller extent resulting in greater orsmaller deviations from the idealised type, the invention is based onthe consideration that as against the uncertain methods employed up tonow, it is necessary to make extended use of anatomical considerations.The invention is based on the recognition of the fact that a correctcutting process can only be obtained by paying attention to thefollowing points:

I. It is necessary to measure the specific individual carriage of bodyin such a manner as to render the dimensions obtained independent of theinvoluntary movements, such as occur also during the process of takingmeasures, of the shoulders and arms and so as to ofier a safe basis forthe piece of work to be cut.

II. The proportion of width between the front and back part of the trunkshould be ascertained.

III. Up to now no reliable method existed for satisfying the precedingtwo paragraphs, but as the method according to the invention to bedescribed below solves both problems, this will at the same time alsosolve for the first time the problem of the front neck point (the pointof intersection of the shoulder line and of the collar seam line), whichquestion had been unsolved since the beginnings of the tailors industry,because as the co-called equilibrium point of the front part of the coatthis point was most indefinite.

IV. The well-known method of measurement of the carriage of theshoulders (the employment of which up-to-now has owing to the unsolvedcondition of the other more important problems not given good results inpractice) will now, as an amplifying factor, again play a part, itspresent function being that (the said three problems being solved) itshould be an accessory means of the method according to the inventionbased on trunk carriage, and is intended to enable suits of perfectcutting to be made, possibly even without trying them on. The inventionwill be dethree reliable data, which are anatomically charof the collarline to that section of the base line as is situated in the side part;this dimension extends preferably along a vertical line forming thecontinuation of the arm pit front line,

3. The dimension (front waist length) extending from the seventh neckvertebra likewise, through the point of intersection of the shoulderline and the collar line to the front centre point of the base line.

The front part of the coat has in most cases the tendency that it shouldbe of greater length than the side parts and this difference in lengthvaries greatly according to the various individuals (for instancebetween A,, inch and 3 inches). In respect of this difference of lengthswhich up to now has not been recognized and instead of which verycomplicated manipulations and other unreliable methods were employed,the invention provides an anatomically defined uniform method.

One of the most important advantages of the method according to theinvention is that it is the first method by which the practical anduniform carrying into effect of so-called correct-pattern cutting,mainly of correct-striped cutting is for the first time renderedpossible. Experiments have been carried on for a long time in view ofeliminating the unpleasant absence of system regarding the stripescoming to be placed above the various parts of the body when cuttinggarments from patterned and particularly striped material, but up to nowit has not been possible to find a reliable uniform method of cutting inthis respect. As against this, the method, based on anatomicalrecognitions, according to the invention and particularly the definedneck peak point resulting from it (the point of intersection of theshoulder line and of the collar line) also solves the question ofcorrect-striped cutting. The main reason of the failure to achievesatisfactory results up to now was that on the parts out on the basis ofunreliable data, e' g. on the shoulder parts there resulted a varyingdensity of the stripes depending on the cutting, and an incorrect matingof the stripes. This circumstance was complicated still further by theincorrect lengthening of the front shoulder seam line and often by thecutting directed from the neckline towards the breast and the frontalcondensation (working-in) the intention of which was to follow theconvexity of the body.

On the drawings a mode shown by way of example of carrying the cuttingprocess according to the invention into effect and an embodiment shownby way of example of each of the means according to the invention areillustrated diagrammatically.

Fig. 1 shows in front view the taking of the measure situated in theline of continuation of the arm pit front-line.

Fig. 2 is a back view corresponding to Fig. 1 and at the same time alsoto Fig. 3.

Fig. 3 shows in front view the taking of the measure leading to thefront centre point of' the base line around the waist.

Fi 4 illustrates in diagrammatical front view, in perspective, a furtherembodiment for determining any deviation from the standard proportion asbetween breast and back width, of the method according to the invention.

Figs. 5 and 5a are examples of cutting patterns prepared in accordancewith the method according to the invention.

Figs. 6 to 10 and Figs. 6a to 10a, respectively, illustrate thedrawbacks presenting themselves in the case of striped clothingmaterials, of the cutting methods employed up to now, and the advantagesof the correct-striped cutting according to the invention, shown inparallel.

Fig, 11 shows two examples of the drawing of the trousers binding line.

Fig. 12 is a view drawn to a smaller scale, of the universal curve ruleraccording to a further development of the invention which ruler isequally suitable for drawing all lines of greater or smaller radius ofcurvature occurring in the cutting of clothes.

According to Fig. 1 a band or cord I made of any desired flexiblematerial is placed horizontally around the waist and thus a definitebase line for exactly measuring the carriage of the trunk is obtainedfor the taking of measures, which line will at the same time serve asthe slimming (winging) line of the completed coat. Basing measurementson this line the first datum of taking measures is obtained according toFigs. 1 and 2 in such a manner that the end of the usual flexiblemeasuring tape II is fitted to the anatomically defined neck centrepoint III (seventh cervical vertebra) and the measuring tape II is ledthrough the point of intersection IV of the shoulder line and collarline i. e. through the so-called neck peak in a vertical directioncoinciding with the front arm pit line to the base line I and readingthe dimension of the measuring tape at its point of meeting V with thebase line I.

According to Fig, 3 the following dimension is obtained in such a mannerthat the measuring tape II is started likewise from the point IIIaccording to Fig. 2 led through the neck peak IV to the centre of thefront part of the base line I i. e. to its front centre VI and readingthe dimension at this point.

Fig. 4 illustrates the exact determination ac cording to the inventionof the half back width representing an important datum for cutting. Inthis respect another feature of the invention consists, incontradistinction from previous unreliable methods, in proceeding insuch a manner as to place a lath VII, in approximately horizontalposition into each arm pit; according to practical observation theselaths will in case of a tight carriage of the body diverge in front,whereas in case of a bent carriage of the body they will mutuallyconverge. On the basis of this observed relation the measuring tape IIis brought into a horizontal straight, position in contact with thecentre of the thorax and a distance between the two laths VII ismeasured; a similar procedure is adopted in the back side also i. e. thedistance between the two laths is also measured in that position of themeasuring tape when the. latter is in contact with the centre of theback. The usual half back width dimension should be increased ordiminished by one-quarter of the difference between the two data,according' to whether the body carriage is bent or tight.

Fig. 5 is an example of a cutting pattern prepared in accordance withthe method according to the invention, in the first place on the basisof the data now described, and also making use of the other usual data,suitable for the case in which the coat is cut with a special side partinstead of withv a front part out in one. The method of designing thiscutting pattern is in its main parts the following:

A drawing of the back part of the coat is prepared in such a manner thatthe horizontal armpit line 38, the waistline 4l9 and the bottom edgeline 5-2! are extended for the front part.

3 l half back Width A; in.

3- fi half back width 5 in.

'i 9:0.1 times the breast width 9l i=2 inches i i-i2':0.05 times thebreast width in.

From the points 8 and I2 obtained, the lines l2l2a, and 8-45 (the latteris the so-called breast centre line) are drawn perpendicularly to line38.

The point A is obtained by adding 1 /2 in. to the distance 8-! 2 andmeasuring back this total along the line !9 i from the point l9 obtainedby means of the line 8--l$. The halving point of this distance l$-A isthe point 88, from which a perpendicular is drawn upwards and downwards.Thus there is obtained the point M on the line 8-42; from this point, 2inches are measured downwards to point 91, which is the end point of thebreast seam.

In accordance with the invention the dimension (side waist length)obtained according to Fig. 1 is taken into account on the cuttingpattern, after deduction of the back neck width lli3, in such a mannerthat the continuation of the line l8!4 is intersected with this distancefrom the point A. mentioned above, thereby obtaining the point B.Further, the front centre line 8-46 of the trunk is intersected by thedimension (front waist length) obtained according to Fig. 3, after thededuction of the back neck width likewise, but starting this time frompoint B; it is thus obtained the point C. It is thus that thetheoretical triangle AB--C, characteristic for the invention, marked bystaggered lines, is produced in the cutting pattern; it is only theangle points of this triangle that are of importance and it is notnecessary to trace its two scales on the cutting pattern.

In accordance herewith the part lEi-A of the base line around the Waistwill be replaced by the oblique line C-A.. It is the extent of thisobliquity, i. e. the magnitude of the difference between the side waistlength and the front waist length that defines according to theinvention the necessary magnitude of front lengthening mentioned in theintroductory part of this specification, as Well as of the correspondingreshortening of the side, the other implications whereof are describedbelow.

C2[l height of pocket, about 4 inches.

Perpendiculars are drawn in the downward direction from the point A onthe line 4-49, and from the point 20 on the line 8|6. Similarly aperpendicular is drawn from the point B of the line Bl until reachingthe points l2 and I).

From the point 18a which owing to the fact of the line having becomeoblique has come to be placed in a lower position the line AC isintersected with a distance of about inch, thus obtaining the point I 8b(in the case of striped material this distance may vary from /2 inch to4 inch).

The point [82) is connected with point l1, and further a parallel to theline ISCL-Ib is drawn from the point i817 until reaching the point l5a.

The distance l9-C is measured up from the point 22 until the point 22a,and further, onethird of this dimension is measured up from the point i5a until reaching the point 1512, which latter is connected with thepoint 22a. slightly extended.

In order to supplement the taken-out part I5l5a plus in. is measured upon the continuation of the line l5b 22a, thus obtaining the point 2211Distance CI6=distance 45+% inch.

In order to make up for 22-22a, this distance is measured down frompoint 2| t point 2! a, and connecting the latter with the point [5, thebase line of the front part is obtained.

From the point 2! to the point Zib the distance l5-l 5a is measured.

From the point A 7 in. is measured towards the right. The point Ila.thus obtained is connected with the points II and 22b, following whichthe point Zlb is connected with the point 22b, and the point 9 with 22b.From the point 23 thus obtained up to the point 230. there is measured0.1 times the belly width plus inch.

The half hip width is in a manner per se known (with the addition of thenecessary surplus for comfort) measured over and thus point 24 isobtained.

Measurin the distance lclllb on the line l2aB there is obtained thepoint b which is the so-called neck peak point of the front part.

As appears from what has been said above, the point 1 results frommeasuring up the back width, and it is joining on to this pointindirectly (by means of the point 9, II) the place of the front armpitline (point l2), as well as the breast width of the front part. It isevident that as a result of this method of designing the cutting patternthe breast width of the front part will result in adverse proportion tothe task width (i. e. the wider the back, the more narrow will be thebreast) as indeed in accordance with the anatomical shape of the bodyand as accordingly required for correct cutting.

On the line 6wAC it may be checked in the usual manner the half bellywidth to which in addition to the parts according to the sewing-in asurplus for comfort of 2 cm. is added. In case the belly width isgreater the wanting quantity is added proportionately distributed at thepoints C, l8?) and Ila, and in accordance herewith the boundary linesare traced more outwardly, as will be described below with reference toFig. 5a.

Moreover there should be drawn from the breast centre line 8C-I6, addingto it the usual transitionwherewith also the buttoning line 2526 isobtained--in the usual manner likewise, but preferably by making use ofthe curved ruler, to be described below, according to the invention,starting the point b, the neck cutting line of the front part and theboundary lines of the front part as well as all curved boundary lines,all of them without exception with the aid of the curved ruler accordingto the invention.

Notably, la-llla back-neck line; l@a1a back-shoulder line; la1bback-armpit line; from lb it is to be measured forward 1 cm. (point M),from here until to point 9 and continuing from point H to point lZa, thefront armpit line is traced; starting slightly below the point [20 thefront shoulder line is traced in the manner shown on the figure throughthe point B to slightly above the point I); lb23a24 is the seam line ofthe lateral part.

Substantial differences may occur as between the front waist length andthe side waist length. Such differences present themselves particularlyin the case of bodies whose bellies are pushed forward, but they mayalso arise in the case of tight breast carriage, which can be determinedfrom the usual breast and belly width as well as from the proportion ofwidths (Fig. 4) of the front and back part. If the difference betweenthe front waist length and the side waist length is caused by theprotruded belly and if this difference is greater than 1% inches, thedistance lS-C should nevertheless not be assumed at a greater figurethan 1% inches, but the residue surplus should, as shown on Fig. 5a, bemeasured outside along the continuation of the line AC up to C, in otherwords the point C is (also in order to make up for the lack in widthwhich will in such cases anyhow present itself when measuring over thewaist width) brought forward; thereby, at the same time the point i6 isalso transferred to the point I6. The point B likewise is carriedbackwards, by two-thirds of the same surplus, to B or in other words theline M-B made oblique (so as to become i l-B Parallel to the last namedline the line l2l2a will also lose its character of being perpendicularto the line I l8, or in other words the point [2a will also becomeplaced backwards in the same extent as point B, into the point 12 a andin accordance herewith the point b will also come to be placed morebackwards. Thus the side Waist length is measured from the point Aalready on the line il3 which has become oblique, and it is inaccordance herewith that the perpendicular l2a'B b will also shape out.By means of this operation it has been ensured that=the distance BC hasbecome increased in the necessary extent, or in other words thattogether with the triangle A, B, C the front of the coat has shaped outin a manner corresponding to the dimensions of trunk carriage. In thiscase the point [6 is brought still lower down on the line Cl6 byone-third of the above diflerence, and it is the new broken line8Cl6'followi ng the direction of the actual carriage of the trunk-whichis taken as the basis for measuring over the hip width. To the same lineit is also added the necessary transi tion when making the externalborder line of the front part moderately convex in the usual manner.

Fig. 5a also illustrates at the points lla-l Hi and l8bl8b' the methodof making up for the deficiency in belly width mentioned above in caseof bodies with large bellies.

If the difference between the front waist length and the side waistlength is only caused by the tight breast and if this difference exceeds1% inches (which occurs rather rarely in such cases) the distance l9C isnot taken greater than 1% inches, but, dispensing with any advancing ofthe point C, only the point B is carried more backwards (see point B onFig. a) until the symbolic triangle A, B, C satisfies the dimensions ofthe front waist length and of the side waist length in the describedmanner. Naturally if the line Bi4 becomes oblique so as to be convertedinto the line BE4, the points lZa and b will also become alteredaccordingly.

The method described is suitable for the production of drawingscorresponding to every type of body. In case of accurate design based oncorrect measures and of eXpert execution the results will exceed by farall former practice.

The peculiarly individual character of the meas- Y ures taken willrender the results most individual even in case the maker of the cuttingpattern has never seen the customer. This is a special advantage forlarge workshops where methods of mass production are employed and everypiece goes from hand to hand excluding the possibility of individualisedwork.

In case it is desired to cut the front and side parts of a coat in onepiece it is possible to follow the method described by putting togetherthe two parts of pattern on the cloth in bringing point 22 (Fig. 5a) tocover 231) and point Zia. to cover point Nb and by replacing thequantity taken out from the breast seam by a special insert in a way perse known.

The special advantages of the cutting method according to the inventionand securing a much better fitting of the clothes to the body thanhitherto obtained, quite independently, of course, of the materialemployed, assert themselves quite particularly with suits made ofstriped material because of the reasons given below. Before going intoparticulars it is helpful to explain with reference to Figures 6 to and6a. to 10a the advantages of the method according to the invention whenapplied to striped material and in comparison to methods employedhitherto.

As may be seen on Fig. 6 on front View, with striped clothes outaccording to the methods used up to now the stripes on the front partseem to be curved towards the neck. As against this, when usin the newmethod according to the invention the stripes will, as appears from Fig.6a, follow accurately the direction of the seam by which the sleeve issewn on.

Figs. 7 and 8 illustrate the fact that the old methods result indisorderly striping on the back, the collar and the lapels. On the otherhand, as is illustrated by Figures 7a and 8a, the method according tothe invention enables continuous, correct striping to be obtained on theback, collar and lapels even in the case of materials having stripessituated at large mutual distances.

According to Fig. 9 the method employed up to now has not ensured thecorrect meeting of stripes at the seam of the shoulders, i. e., thestriping was disorderly also on this place and a meeting of the stripescould not ensue, the less as according to the methods of cutting andhandling employed up to now the striping of the shoulders on the frontpart was wider and that of the back part narrower as compared to theoriginal striping of the material employed; even when some of the pairsof stripes happened to meet, these stripes formed very conspicuousangles with one another. On the contrary, when employing the methodaccording to the invention (Fig. 9a) the stripes are following the bendof the body along the shoulder part quite correctly and so they do notonly flow one into the other but, at the same time, conserving theoriginal width of striping of the cloth, they form plastic, smooth andpleasant curvatures that follow exactly the upper seam by which thesleeves are sewn-on.

Finally, as shown by Fig. 10, in case of breast sewing done on the frontcut hitherto in one piece, there is in front of the pocket a curvedstripe separated from the other stripes. As against this, the methodaccording to the invention results in correct striping along the pocketsas illustrated by Fig. 10a.

The described advantages as regards correctly striped cutting areachieved by the method according to the invention in consequence of itsfollowing peculiarities:

Up to now, as the very considerable fluctuations of the differences inlength between front part and side parts of the coat could not be takeninto consideration at the cutting, the front part of the coat was not inequilibrium, it went asunder, i. e. it stood oil in the neck region orit tended to draw up, thus causing creasing in the side parts. Therestoration of equilibrium was attempted by the uncertain displacementof the neck top point, the breast part was workedin and the shoulderseam line lengthened. All this resulted in the stripes becoming curvedaccording to Fig. 6. As against this, the method according to theinvention results in a steady equilibrium of the coat and gives adefinite neck top point on the cutting patternnamely, when after makingthe cutting pattern according to Figs. 5 and 5a, the front parts out outare seamed together, the point 221) being joined to point 22, andfurther when the breast convexity has been formed by ironing, not infront but from the armpits in the known way, and instead of the shoulderseam the curved neckline 28 below point b is lengthened and the breastpart of the cloth is, in the usual way, arranged forward and theshoulder part backward, point 7) will finally come to be situated in theplace of point B and a definite neck top point will be obtained. Thisand the parallelism between line i2i2a and the buttoning line 25-26explain why correct striping on the front part according to Fig. 6a isobtained.

As illustrated in Fig. '7 it was usual up to now to stretch the loweredge of the collar, whilst the top line of the collar was shortened byadequate ironing resulting in the stripes becoming placed at widerintervals on the lower part and densified on the upper part of thecollar, as a result whereof the stripes run together in the upwarddirection, and, besides, the striping on the back part did not coincidewith that of the collar. As against this, the definite neck top pointachieved by the method according to the invention enables one toestablish a definite length of the collar thus making a correct meetingof collar striping and back striping, as shown by Fig. 7a, and at thesame time, achieving the flowing together of collar stripes and lapelstripes in the sense of Fig. 8a. All that is re uired for this purposeis that the uppercloth of the collar (the upper collar) should be drawnalong the line of the underlying part (lapel part) of the ironed-inlower collar, adding to it the usual upstanding part (or inner part),and that it should be cut broader at the ends so as to facilitate thecorrect arrangement of the stripes.

For tacking, if necessary, the cloth should be stretched obliquely by orinch. Contrary to the method according to Fig. 7 as employed up to nowthe outer back part of the upper collar is not stretched at all but onlythe inner back part. In case the inner cloth does not give properly wayto the stretching, either the upstanding (or inner) part on theso-called upper collar must be made narrower or it is also possible toapply the well-known wedgeshaped filler.

The correct striping of the shoulder parts according to Fig. 9a is,first of all, a result of the definite neck top point and is also due tothe fact that in using the method according to the invention (Fig. 5)the measure of the shoulder height gives automatically and according tothe carriage of the customer the smaller or greater obliqueness of theback-shoulder-line (namely: in case of bent carriage the shoulder lengthis greater, with upright carriage smaller) and thus the more or less oftaking-in, necessary for a smooth fitting of the coat in compliance tothe shape of the body and for a correct meeting of the stripes, resultsquite automatically. Contrary to the curved strips to be seen in Fig. 10the correct striping along the pockets as shown by Fig. 10a is broughtabout by the equilibrium of the front part of the coat assured by theinvention, as thus it is possible to pre-establish the direction of thepockets with full accuracy, to cut them out beforehand and, therefore,to take out from the cloth at the breast seam between points l5 and athe quantity corresponding to the stripe breadth, thus not only avoidingthe stripes at the lower end point of the breast seam becoming curvedbut also achieving complete equality of stripe distances after sewingtogether.

The method according to the invention may be, in harmony to the cuttingof the coat, also employed for the making of vestcoats and trousers,with the same effect. In particular, first of all, the operation carriedout on the basis of base line and neck top point as described beforewill, in addition to the waistcoat, also ensure the correct cutting ofthe trousers and especially the right design of the upper, the so-calledwaist tie line of the trousers. Up to now no sufficient- 1y reliablemethod existed for the cutting of the waist tie line of trousers, thoughit is the correct direction of that line that determines, in the firstline, the correct fall of the trousers free of oblique creases. This toois achieved according to the invention by the determination ofindividual trunk carriage for cutting purposes as described above.

It is established by practical observation that with average, idealizedtypes of body as taken for a basis by the cutting methods employed up tonow and with regular carriage of body the front waist length exceeds theside waist length by about inch. But in reality the differencesexperienced are in the case of bodies with receding bellies smaller thaninch, whilst in other cases the difierences seem higher, especially inthe case of bodies whose bellies are protruding as described inconnection with Fig. 5a. In this direction a further feature of theinvention is based on the observation that the protruding of the bellyrequires at the centre of the front part of the trousers, when comparedto the normal, about as much of additional measure (in the upwarddirection and eventually also in the sense of forward displacement) asthe difference between front waist length and side waist exceeds inch.In the case, for instance, that this difference amounts to 2 inches itwill be necessary when drawing the front part of. the trousers todisplace the centre point C (centre point of the belly) upward andforward quite similarly and in harmony to the operation described inconnection to Fig. 5a, when in the case of the coat the centre pointmarked C was displaced in the downward and forward direction. It isquite clear that in case of the aforesaid difference being less than 4inch the belly centre point is to be displaced in downward directionaccordingly. Fig. 11 is an illustration of a partial design of thetrousers tie line in two examples on one half of the cutting pattern ofthe front part of trousers. A is a point according to the abovedescribed cutting pattern (Figs. 5 and 5a) being in relation with thepoint B established with attention to the side waist length and C is thepoint obtained on the basis of the front waist length. In the abovementioned normal case inch difference of lengths) the waist tie line ofthe front part of the trousers is given by the line A-C. In case of abody whose belly is receding point C is to be displaced downward topoint Ci in connection with and by the same method as the design ofcutting pattern described above according to Figs. 5 and 5a, whilst inthe opposite case, especially where there is a significant difierenceowing to considerable belly protrusion, C is to be displaced to C2 i. e.considerably higher and forwards.

The ruler according to Fig. 12 as already mentioned above is suitablefor the drawing of all curves of greater or smaller curvature as may beencountered in cutting for bodies of all sorts of measure. It isespecially possible to draw the back-neck-line lllala in the directionof the arrow at by placing the point d of the ruler on point Illa.according to Fig. 5 and the backshoulder-line la-la, also in thedirection of arrow 0:, by placing point e of the ruler on point Illa inthe same way. By placing point on the upper end point of line 28-baccording to Fig. 5 and by help of part ym of the ruler the shoulderline of the front part of the coat passing through point B of Fig. 5 isdrawn. For the drawing of the back-armpit-line lalb any part of thatside of the ruler can be used which is marked 7 and possesses a largeradius of curvature. The same side, marked by 1, may be used for thedrawing of the lapel-line 21, further of the are below point lb and ofthe side hip-line 23a24. The front part of the armpit-line betweenpoints I20. and II is drawn by the help of parts h, z confining theinner cut 9 of the ruler, whilst part It serves for the design of thebackward lower curvature of the armpit-line between points 9 and Id.Further, it is by the help of this part is of the ruler that theneckline 28 is drawn. For the drawing of the initial part of therounding-up below point 26 part m of the ruler should be used,.and forthe drawing of the continuation of the same, the part n confining theinner cut of the ruler. Finally, parts 0, p of the ruler as well as partI will be used for the drawing of a pointed lapel of the front part, ifsuch is wanted. In case of very full hips instead of part ,1 of theruler also part m may be used for drawing the upper part of line 23a24.Further, part m of the ruler is suitable for drawing the elbow centreline of the coat sleeve and line 11. for the drawing of the so-calledsleeveball (i. e. the upper, arched line of the coat sleeve). Finallyitis possible to use part f of the ruler for the design of the frontseam line of the coatsleeve H The ruler" according tothe invention joinsinto a close system all the curves to be met at the drawing of cuttingpatterns andwhich Were up' to now drawn by free hand rather uncertainly.

Having now fully described my invention, I claim:

In a method for cutting garments, particularly with patterned fabrics,and utilizing a predetermined base line about the Waist, the combinedsteps, which consist in taking the longitudinal measurements of thefront and side portions from the body of asubject for making thegarment, between said base line and the point of intersection of theshoulder and collar line as a definite neck top point, laying out on thecutting pattern a middle line passing through the neck top point bydetermining the proportion in Width of the front and back pcrtion of thegarment While disposing tvvo spaced laths at both sides of the trunk soas to protrude both .in frbrit and at the rear, and then measuring theconverg'ence or divergence of said laths, and finally laying out thesemeasurements upon a cutting pattern for designing the main parts of thelatter, completing the cutting pattern by taking and applying the otherusual measurements and then executing the cutting by means of thefinished cutting pattern.

ADORJAN ERNo SZABO.

